This procedure tightens the old seal and may stop the oil leak. and it seals!! Rear main seal replacement Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by Dodge96Ram, Nov 25, 2014. It is my understanding that as the seal is two piece even the replacement will leak. âWe had to ⦠The smaller piece in the center of the crankshaft is a pilot bearing, included on only rear-wheel-drive manual cars. I'm just lower to the ground which doesn't help me lol Determine its the seal Be careful. Make sure the seal is facing the correct direction, as stated above. do not swap therm side to side . Torque all of the main bolts and put the pan back on ⦠you will need to slightly lift the front end about half a foot so the pan will clear the axle without pulling the oil pumpnsump. I used a piece of wood in front, and a screwdriver in the rear. A rear main seal leak is among the worst things that can happen to any vehicle because the rear main seal is very hard to reach and it requires much of your engine to be disassembled. The rear main seal is located in the back-most bearing cap. Be sure you have it facing the correct direction as per the mfg. anyway getting ready to drop the pan, and change the seal.. anybody have any first hand experence with doing this? Recently used a 1 piece pan gasket from milodon , I probably just got a bad one cause it definetly ⦠I have used permatex ultra gray on corners of rear main cap seal area. This marvelous material is easy to trim. pacecarta LOGGED OUT. The seal has the number of the "problem" seal 800093. Checked Kaiser-Willys part list and found the rear seal you ordered. I found some directions that indicate it can be replaced without dropping the crank by working it over the top of the crank with a wire. Remove the old seal. Make sure that you put the new one back in with the lips facing in. I took a look at the stock ford rear main seal ⦠6100 â GraphTite⢠Rope Rear Main Seal. This is a real prevalent problem for people who have this done to their 350âs, and thereâs a lot of people out there ⦠Source(s): its way easier to pull the engine, you can pull the engine, paint it repair the rear main, rering the bottom end and put a new timing chain and waterpump in one go, and have it detailed and back in by 5 pm without ⦠So, As time went by mechanics and engine rebuilders slowly come up with alternative seals to make the job easier. The leak was the rear main seal for sure. Either way you have to remove the cap but if its a rope then you can only do the bottom half without removing the crank. 3. ⦠Then fel pro black pan gaskets with ultra gray at front and rear corners. GraphTite⢠rope seals are miles ahead of any other rope seal out there. If you have a 1 piece rear main seal (found on most new 351 motors) you will have to remove the transmission to replace the rear main seal. Edit to add; Do not install that seal dry, I like to use a thin film of MoS2 engine assy paste or engine assy lube. Motor oil will work but ⦠If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and install on a work ⦠it is the rope type seal. The most labor-intensive seal to replace on any engine is the rear main seal. Remove the rear main seal from the engine block around the crankshaft. The old and new seal. If its a rope seal then you have to drop the crank. New one-piece seal conceived for use on Ford 429-460 big-blocks; Boss Nine; and P51 engines â Simple assembly; reliable service â See installation sequence below Without wishing to diminish the performance of any current rear main seal for the Ford 385-series engines, Jon Kaase wanted more. Pierce the end of the seal about 1/4" from the end with an ice pick, and thread a piece of solid copper wire about 1/16" in diameter and about 18" long through the hole. May be the same seal that Omix sold you. Front and rear views of the Kaase 1-piece rear main seal for Ford 429-460 engines. what you want is the neoprene type of seal as you can install this type without removing the crank and by feeding it around the journal of the crank it is installed quite easily.Just make sure you install it the correct way with the lip of the seal facing forward and off set ⦠When I asked the "motor heads" there was no unamomous agreement as to a particular type. . On most modern engines, the sealâs failure is due to a condition inside the engine or a component connected to the back of the engine, ⦠instructions. In some cases, the seal may just pull out with a pair of needle-nosed pliers or tap out using a flat head screwdriver and hammer. Clean out the seal groove with brake cleaner. Itâll probably take a large breaker bar or impact wrench to get the bolts loose. Twist the wire into a spiral until you've got a pigtail about 9" long.Roll the seal on a piece of plate glass or other smooth surface until it's about 2⦠The bottom half of the seal is in the bearing cap, and if itâs old like the one we were replacing, it may take some work to get all the old seal out. Find Rear Main Seal Installation Tools and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! I used that write up when I changed mine. The following evening I loosened the mains, and used a little bit of grease to slide the new seal in. Remove the bottom half from the bearing cap. Valve covers and intake were always dry. and have always had the pesky drip, and yes they are installed correct way around and no it is not leaky from anywhere else, I have checked the oil galleys in the back and the oil ⦠Add entire bottle of Rear Main Seal Repair to engine crankcase (where you normally add oil) at or between oil changes. We used a Parragon reproduction ⦠. If its a plastic 2 piece seal then you can do it by removing the rear bearing cap. Average Rear Main Seal Repair Cost â To Have A Mechanic Replace Rear Main Seal The average cost to repair a leaky rear main seal, is anywhere from $800 â $1,200 dollars. Use a large screwdriver to remove the engine plate and access the rear main seal ⦠Using a special seal kit, or a wick type seal and a copper wire, feed the new seal ⦠2. The anatomy of the rear main seal consists of a cylindrical metal piece in the middle of the seal â this is the crankshaft. Another approach is to use a leak repair kit--if you can still find one. BS11829-1 (fits 1959-1985) And a Oil pan gasket kit --- your choice -- one piece or a 4 piece cork whatever -- your preference. To remove that old seal , determine the exact center of the steel rod within it then use a slightly larger punch to drive it ⦠no need to open the engine twice. Replacing the Rear Engine Seal on a Y-Block. To prevent future leaks and for outstanding preventive maintenance, install Rear Main Seal Repair every 5,000 miles or with every oil ⦠This can be done with out touching the rod journals. 235 Rear Main Seal The shims are *very* important ! Lube and install the new seal into the block. Numerous Internet forums confirm this habitual engine bleeding and the resulting frustration to the owner. These include the rear main seal itself, the side seals on the seal retainer, the oil pan bolts, the oil galley plugs, the cam plug, and residuals seeping down from the top and back of the engine. Hello, I have a Chevrolet 350 engine that has had itsâ crankshaft bearing bores align honed. To ensure exact trimming, each kit includes installation instructions, a special knife, and a few other trimming aids. And letâs not forget the oil pump as it can also be a contributor but this particular leak is easier to spot than most. Two-piece rear main seals leaking in Ford 429ci and 460ci engines is hardly an uncommon problem these days. yes, you can replace the seal without yanking the engine. Now would be a good time to replace the front seal as well, providing the pulleys and harmonic balancer are removed before removing main rod caps. Some mechanics will drop the pan, this includes removing the timing chain and harmonic balancer, then loosen the main, removing #5 then pull out the old and insert the new seal. Pull the upper half of the old seal out with a pair of pliers. Hey guys, I have replaced my rear main seal 5 times now, I have tried 2 billet mancini styles, 1 440 source style, and reused the stock one twice. The kit uses a pushrod to drive a pointed steel spacer pin between the upper rear main seal and the block. Apparenty I didnt **** the rear seal 3/8" and i had the original felpro rear seal package and it said nothing about the crush or cocking the seal 3/8". My GPW with the "best" type seal and has not leaked so far going on 2 ⦠If not, try drilling three evenly-spaced, 1/8-inch holes onto the seal face and screwing in a couple of self-tapping screws. Lowest Prices Guaranteed Vehicle/Engine Search Vehicle/Engine Search Make/Model Search This tiny amount of metal thatâs been honed off makes the rear main oil seal leak , because of the added clearance. The only problem is the seal is fiber, looks and feels like waxy braded rope. ⦠Using the rope type would mean crankshaft removal . Now I am a 5 lug but the engine is the same. This is a very loose tutorial its mainly to show how I did it and to show that it is possible to swap without removing anything beside the belt and the pulley itself. Staff member. I am looking for the best way and type of rear engine seal to use to replace mine. As a result, The list of alternative seals has been growing with good success, solving problems, saving time and money. Most leaks will stop within 100 miles or 2 days of driving. 1. Install into Main Cap. Our rope actually fits! Page 2 of 3 < Prev 1 2 3 Next > Sponsored By: ... Engine: 5.2 Magnum. -note- you might as well have a set of crank bearings on hand, just in case you need to do them as well. Offset seal slightly above block base, other half slightly below opposite side. The old way of changing the rear main without removing the engine is this; Drop the oil pan and remove the rear main bearing cap. Replace Seal. I got another rear seal in an engine gasket set and that rear seal package said to **** the seal 3/8" but said nothing about setting the crush. On most modern engines, the sealâs failure is due to a condition inside the engine or a component connected to the back of the engine. by Dan Villanueva. As, They usually had the experience doing them once before. Again, this is a good alternative to removing the engine for a limited-use vehicle. for One Piece Seal If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. Install the seal into the main cap and lube with engine oil. So I cleaned up the damaged seal and decided to use is as the lower piece, since this would make it easier to replace if it leaked. A lot of good information in there. Rear Main Rope Seal. Some people are getting quotes of up to $2,500 dollars on some vehicles, which is way to expensive for what I was trying to do⦠To change the two piece seal you obviously have to remove the pan and then take the rear main cap off and loosen the other main caps to let the crank drop a little so you can get the top half of the seal out. Anyways how you replace them without removing the transmission, simple, the seal is internal and it's a 2 piece seal so you drop the pan, remove the rear main bearing cap after removing the oil pump of course, then you can remove the seals by pushing the upper around the crank and the lower seal half just ⦠Push and rotate the new seal in place. Felpro Rear Main Seal kit -- a double offset lip seal Part no. You will see the difference between this seal and the one from Ron Fitzpatrick jeep parts. ok, my 216 rear main seal leaks like crazy. There are no shortcuts or quick fixes if the seal has expired. But you should be getting a one piece rubber gasket if so my info stands only in the very tight corners where the gasket get pushed into the main block spot and the timing cover to pan spot. If your motor has a 2 piece rear main seal (found on older 351 and 460 motors) you should be able to replace it by simply removing the oil pan and the last main bearing cap. Do not overfill.
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